Crafting Your Own Natural Shampoo

This is part 2 of a 9-part “DIY Personal Care Products” series originally featured in Epoch Times.

In this series we explore how to save money and lower our toxic burden by harnessing the healing powers of nature through home-made personal care products. By making your own product line, you can avoid the side effects of chemical additives, artificial fragrances, and toxic preservatives commonly found in commercial products.

Article #2: Crafting Your Own Natural Shampoo

By Sina McCullough, PhD

Last week, we began our endeavor to prioritize our well-being and navigate inflation's impact on our finances by crafting our own natural body lotion.  Today, we journey further into the realm of DIY personal care products by focusing on shampoo - an essential component of a hair care regimen.

In this article, we explore the potential dangers of chemicals found in some store-bought shampoo and the advantages of formulating your own.  Two all-natural shampoo recipes tailored to address the needs of oily and dry scalps are provided.

Unmasking the Perils of Conventional Shampoos

Some of the potential harmful chemicals lurking in some commercial shampoos include:

1. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): A surfactant commonly used in shampoo for its ability to create lather; However, SLS can penetrate the skin and cause irritation, according to a study published in the Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences.  In fact, SLS is commonly used in cosmetic studies due to its ability to irritate the skin.  SLS was shown to impair skin barrier function and disturb the balance of skin microbiota toward dysbiosis, according to a study in Cosmetics.  SLS can also strip hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness.

2. Formaldehyde-releasing Preservatives: Some shampoos contain preservatives that release formaldehyde, which is classified as a human carcinogen by the National Toxicology Program.  Formaldehyde-releasers, such as sodium hydroxymethylglycinate and imidazolidinyl urea, have been associated with dermatitis and allergies.

3. Petroleum and Possible Carcinogens: Shampoos can contain ingredients derived from petroleum that are tricky to identify on the product label because it is listed under various names, such as: petrolatum, xylene, toluene, mineral oil, polyethylene glycol, and liquid paraffin.  According to a study conducted by the Environmental Working Group, petroleum-based ingredients can be contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane, which is considered a probable human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.  Even products claiming to be “organic” can contain undisclosed 1,4-Dioxane, according to a study commissioned by the Organic Consumers Association.  The FDA does not require 1,4-Dioxane to be listed as an ingredient on product labels because it is a contaminant produced during manufacturing.

4. Parabens: Synthetic preservatives, including methylparaben and propylparaben, are sometimes added to shampoo to extend the shelf life.  However, research has linked parabens to hormone disruption due to their ability to mimic estrogen in the body.  According to a study published in Pharmacological Reports, parabens can alter the expression of estrogen-responsive genes in human breast cancer cells.

5. Artificial Fragrances: Synthetic fragrances, often listed generically as "fragrance" on product labels, can contain a mixture of undisclosed chemicals, including phthalates.  While phthalates function as stabilizers and solvents in fragrances, a study in Environmental Research reported reproductive and endocrine disorders associated with phthalate exposure through use of personal care products, including shampoo. 

You can avoid these harmful chemicals and protect your health from potential risks associated with long-term exposure by making your own shampoo.

Benefits of Making Your Own Shampoo

By incorporating natural shampoo into your hair care routine, you bestow upon your tresses an array of advantages in addition to chemical-free assurance, such as:

1. Cost Savings in Inflationary Times: Natural ingredients used in homemade shampoos are often more affordable when purchased in bulk, plus you can reuse containers to further reduce costs. This article includes two natural shampoo recipes made from organic ingredients: Oily Scalp and Dry Scalp.  Using today’s bulk pricing, the Oily Scalp recipe costs 0.58¢ per ounce, which is 50% cheaper than comparable store-bought organic brands.  The Dry Scalp recipe costs 0.40¢ per ounce per ounce, which is approximately one-third of the price of comparable organic brands.

2. Personalized Ingredients and Tailored Formulations: Crafting your own shampoo allows you to select specific ingredients that cater to your unique scalp and hair type. 

3. Environmental Consciousness: Commercial shampoos often come packaged in single-use plastic bottles, contributing to pollution and environmental degradation. By making your own shampoo, you can reduce plastic waste by utilizing reusable containers. Furthermore, natural ingredients are typically biodegradable, minimizing their impact on ecosystems.

DIY Shampoo Recipes for Specific Scalp Conditions

Below are two recipes that harness the power of natural ingredients to promote hair and scalp health, including:

Aloe Vera: Used daily by the Egyptian queens Nefertiti and Cleopatra as part of their beauty routine, Aloe keeps skin moist, which helps avoid flaky scalp, according to a study published in the International Research Journal of Plant Science. 

Jojoba Oil: A widely used medicinal plant, jojoba has a long history of use for treating skin and scalp disorders and for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antimicrobial activity, according to a study published in 2021 in Polymers.

Coconut Milk: Made from the white meat inside of ripe coconut shells, coconut milk contains natural fatty acids, such as lauric acid, that help strengthen the hair cuticle (outermost layer), according to a report in the International Journal of Innovative Science and Research Technology.  Coconut milk can also moisturize the hair and restore dry hair and scalp.

Castile soap: Originating in the Mediterranean region in the 12th century, castile soap was originally made from olive oil.  Today, it is made from a variety of plant-derived oils, such as: olive, coconut, jojoba, hemp, avocado or walnut oil.  According to an article in Skin Appendage Disordered, surfactants, such as SLS, can leave the scalp dry and hair brittle. In contrast, castile soap contains natural fats that can help condition the hair.         

Honey: Hair follicles are responsible for growing hair and are partly composed of epithelial (skin) cells.  According to a 2013 review published in the Jundishapur Journal of Natural Pharmaceutical Products, honey can promote the growth of epithelial cells thereby assisting with hair growth.  Honey also exerts humectant and hair conditioning effects, according to a 2013 review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.  It also lubricates the hair for ease of combing.     

Tea Tree Essential Oil: According to a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of dermatology, teal tree oil shampoo used daily for four weeks significantly decreased “itchiness and greasiness” in subjects experiencing dandruff.   

Lavender Essential Oil: A 2016 study in Toxicology Research reported a significant increase in hair growth and thickness among female mice following topical application of lavender oil.  The researchers concluded lavender oil “could be practically applied as a hair growth-promoting agent.”

A Word on Ingredient Quality

Choose organic ingredients whenever possible.  Organic means the crop was not genetically modified and was not sprayed with most synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, according to the United States Department of Agriculture.     

In addition to organic, when choosing oils, select products that are 100% pure, cold-pressed, and unrefined. 

Essential oils are sometimes adulterated by adding a similar but cheaper oil or diluting the natural oil with various solvent oils in order to reduce costs.  In 2023, ConsumersAdvocate.org tested 11 peppermint essential oil samples and four were reportedly adulterated.  Therefore, choose essential oils that are 100% pure, do not contain additives or synthetic chemicals, and have been tested for heavy metals, microbes and glyphosate.   

Transitioning from Conventional to Natural Shampoo

Transitioning from conventional to all-natural shampoo can be challenging due to the detox phase, during which your scalp and hair gradually rid themselves of synthetic product build-up and find a natural oil balance.

This phase can bring increased scalp oiliness, brittle hair, and sometimes limp or weighed-down strands. However, as you progress through the detox phase (typically within 2-3 weeks, but up to 4-6 weeks for some), you'll notice improved shampoo lathering, softer tresses, and more effective hair detangling.

During this transition, it's often recommended to shampoo the scalp (not the hair) twice during each wash with the natural shampoo to enhance cleansing results and achieve better foaming on the second application.  Utilizing a dry shampoo in between washes can also help remove excess oil.  Applying conditioner only to the hair and not the scalp can also help if an oily scalp becomes a challenge.

Once product build-up has been remedied and your scalp finds its natural oil balance, washing the hair and scalp every 2 days often yields the best results and you'll likely require less conditioner. 

Recipe 1: Invigorating Tea Tree Shampoo for Normal or Oily Scalp

Ingredients:

2 Tablespoons shea butter

2 teaspoons jojoba oil or sweet almond oil

2 teaspoons viscous honey

2 teaspoons beeswax

2 cups liquid pure castile soap, unscented

1 Tablespoon pure aloe vera gel or 2-inch piece fresh aloe*

10-15 drops essential oilǂ  (I prefer tea tree essential oil for oily scalp and clary sage, peppermint or ylang ylang for normal scalp)  

Instructions:

1. In a glass bowl, add shea butter, jojoba oil, honey, and beeswax.

2. Melt the mixture over medium-low heat using a double boiler, stirring until well combined.  If you don’t have a double boiler, use the glass bowl and a large pot as a substitute.  When choosing the size of the pot, the glass bowl should fit comfortably over the top of the pot, almost like a lid, but leave enough space between the bottom of the glass bowl and the pot to ensure steam can flow between them. Place water in the bottom of the pot, place the glass bowl containing the ingredients on top of the pot, and simmer until the water steams.      

3. Once all ingredients are melted, remove from heat and allow to cool to the touch.

4. Add aloe vera and mix using a hand blender until combined.

5. Add castile soap and essential oil.  Mix with a hand blender until combined. 

6. Transfer the mixture to a foaming soap dispenser, which will thicken the shampoo.  Alternatively, transfer the mixture to an old shampoo bottle, or reusable bottle or container.  Make sure the container has a secure lid so water does not enter, which could promote microbial growth.

7. Shake the container before each use.  Shampoo will be runny. If thicker, such as DIY shampoos that rely on more shea butter, I found it clogs the shower drain. So, I opt for a thinner shampoo. Simply lather the shampoo in your hands (it will suds up nicely), apply to wet hair, and rinse thoroughly.

*If using fresh aloe, choose a thick leaf and cut a 1 inch piece.  Remove the outer coating and add only the aloe gel.  If hair feels oily after using this shampoo, omit aloe.

Recipe 2: Hydrating Coconut Milk Shampoo for Dry Scalp

Ingredients:

1/2 cup coconut milk

1/4 cup liquid pure castile soap, unscented

1 Tablespoons honey

1/2 Tablespoon sweet almond oil or jojoba oil

5 drops lavender or ylang-ylang essential oilǂ

Instructions:

1. In a bowl, using a hand blender, mix the coconut milk, liquid castile soap, honey, sweet almond oil, and lavender essential oil.

2. Stir the ingredients thoroughly until well combined.

3. Pour the mixture into a reusable bottle or container.

4. Shake the bottle before each use.  Apply a small amount to wet hair, lather, and rinse thoroughly.  Shampoo has a shelf-life of approximately one week.  Extend the shelf-life by storing in the refrigerator; I pour the shampoo into two bottles and refrigerate one to extend its shelf-life while using the other bottle in the shower. 

Contraindications and Precautions

ǂPregnant or breastfeeding women, children under the age of 2, and anyone consuming prescription medications should consult their healthcare provider before using essential oils.  Lavender essential oil can cause skin irritation.  Nausea, vomiting, headache and chills have been reported in some people after inhaling or absorbing lavender through the skin.  Tea Tree essential oil may cause skin irritation.  In people with acne, it may cause dryness, tiching, burning or redness. 

Before using the recipes in this article, consult with your health care provider to ensure the ingredients are aligned with your specific health needs.  Always check for sensitivities or adverse reactions by applying a small amount of product.  Do not use these recipes if you are allergic or sensitive to any of the ingredients.   

Final Thoughts

Crafting your own shampoo offers a multitude of benefits for your health, finances, and the environment.  You can also personalize the formulation to cater to your specific scalp condition, be it oily or dry.  So, embrace the power of DIY hair care by unlocking the transformative benefits of homemade shampoo.

Stay tuned for our next article, where we will explore crafting your own natural toothpaste, free of harmful chemicals and yet it actually works!